Florence: the Fleur of Renaissance

 

The Cradle of Renaissance. 

That is what Florence is regarded for. Its name, when reduced into simplest form, was taken from the Latin term 'florere,' which means "to bloom." During the Renaissance Era of the 15th and 16th Centuries, this city has taken an enormous influence all over the world. It is therefore apt to regard it as "the Fleur of Renaissance."

"Fleur" is a French term for "flower." Though it suggests vulnerability, it is also associated with "strength" and "resiliency." After all, flowers grow even in the midst of natural challenges and difficulties. Florence was mighty and powerful during most of its historical existence. It defeated Siena in an intense, centuries-long rivalry, and today, remains as the capital of Tuscany.

Florence is my sister's favorite. It is not difficult to understand why. Everywhere you go, you will feel a kind of flair you will only experience when you set foot on this city. The narrow alleys, the cobblestones, the buildings dating back to Renaissance, and the mellow streetlights give this destination its over-all cosmopolitan vibe. It is probably the most cosmopolitan ancient city we have ever been to.

Arrival

Nighttime Florence
Image Credit: alkir through iStock

We arrived at Florence in the middle of the night. We were starving, tired, and almost had a big fight. On our way to the hotel, we rode a taxicab who literally crisscrossed the ancient parts of the city. The streets were all cobblestones so it felt like a bumpy ride on a horse-drawn carriage.

As we went on, we saw the beauty of Florence unraveling itself. I didn't take pictures, although I should have (regrettably), so I could fully witness the city streets without any form of distraction. I must say that I was not bedazzled; instead, I fell in love with the city's dreamy vibe. Everything felt like we were in the middle of a nostalgic fairytale of long ago.

Florentine Streets

Florence is always filled with thousands of tourists that it was difficult to capture good images of the city. People were everywhere looking around or stopping by to inspect remarkable sights here and there. Regardless, the beauty of Florence cannot be eliminated by the mere presence of the crowd.

A statue of an artist, among dozens of others

On our way to Uffizi Gallery and out, we saw dozens of statues sculpted dramatically. Even statues depicting gruesome events tend to tantalize the onlooker no matter what.

Perseus with the Head of Medusa (1554)

The "Perseus with the Head of Medusa" completed and unveiled to the public in 1554 was one fine example. The finesse of the artwork removed anything that would normally disgust the onlooker. The end result appears to be the pinnacle of artistic expression. When one artist seamlessly blends horror with art and turns it into something enigmatic yet beautiful, it only inspires people. 

The Fountain of Neptune (1559)

The Fountain of Neptune, on the other hand, had no modicum of horror at all. A gift from Cosimo I, the duke of Florence, it was constructed to celebrate the presence of clean water in the city. Statues in Italy follow some kind of Pareto Principle: 80% proudly show their private parts for all the world to see.

Shaking hands with a statue

While walking down the busy streets of the city, we saw many statues everywhere. Almost all folks were unaware that one of them was a charlatan! I noticed a little change in position so I immediately went up close and told my sister to take a picture. I felt somewhat proud of myself for noticing something almost everyone didn't see. Many more tourists took pictures with the statue afterwards!

One of the shops in Florence

We passed by several shops in Florence. I remember how scrumptious all the food looked. If only I had so much more euros, I probably would have bought some. 

The Dizzying Uffizi Galleries

The entrance to the Uffizi Galleries

The Uffizi Gallery was one of the main stopovers of our tour. It houses one of the largest collections of paintings and statues in the entire world. Unveiled to the public in the late 1500s, this museum is nearly five hundred years old now.

My sister and Mama Sarah about to start the tour

My sister chose to include this museum to our itinerary as she herself loves doodling with paint. On the other hand, I was not so interested in paintings so Uffizi Gallery was a little blur to me. Nonetheless, I've seen several noteworthy artworks that I find to be spectacular.

Statue of Laocoon and his sons being strangled by sea serpents

One statue that I find interesting was the statue of Laocoon, a Trojan priest, and his sons being strangled by sea serpents. The one exhibited at Uffizi Galleries was a mere replica of a much older statue unearthed in Rome way back 1506. The original was most probably created during the 2nd Century BC. It is now exhibited at the Vatican Museum which we also saw few days later.

My sister mimicking a statue

My own version

During the tour of the galleries, my sister mimicked some statues which she later posted on instagram. Out of curiosity, I wanted to try it out as well. While I was posing for the camera, all the tourists in the area took shots of me. Maybe they wanted to capture shots of a crazy Asian or perhaps I just looked awesome that time. 😉

Naughty Mama Sarah and "Mars Gradivus" (1559)

Mama Sarah had no qualms doing something naughty as she opened her jaws as if to swallow an entire thing. A statue made of bronze, Mars Gradivus is said to be the protector of Florence. With all his vulnerable parts bared to the public, I wonder how he is able to protect Florence, a mighty and powerful city. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Mama Sarah taking pictures of the description of "Head of Zeus" (2nd Century AD)

The Head of Zeus was one of the most noticeable statues in the gallery. Made of marble, it dons a hair with a conspicuous style. Curls all over, even throughout the beard, it appears to be exaggerated to overstate the powers and authority of a god.

My sister gazing at several self-portraits from the 17th and 18th Centuries.

At the museum, we saw hordes of self-portraits from different eras but most of these artworks date back to 17th and 18th centuries. Self-portraits were more common during those times than nowadays because there were no cameras yet. It wasn't until 1839 when Daguerreotypes became publicly available. These paintings were practically the "selfies" of the Age of Enlightenment and only artists had the talent to immortalize their own ephemeral appearances.

"Adoration of the Child" (1619-20) by Gerrit van Honthorst

"Wedding Feast" (1613-17) by Gerrit van Honthorst

Some artworks played with the contrast between light and dark. Vivid colors were subdued just to show the natural effects of darkness to the true colors of things, which made me wonder what techniques the artists employed to pull that off. On top of that, the paintings all looked natural and I didn't see any flaws at all! This was my favorite part of the tour.

"Judith Beheading Holofernes" (1620-1) by Artemisia Gentileschi

Perhaps boredom was already a thing way back in the past that artists created some really gruesome stuff as well. But they made them, well, dramatic and somewhat candid in a way. For some reason, the facial expressions of the subjects seemed way more believable than what we see in movies nowadays. Sometimes, a five-minute glance on an evocative painting can already feel as though you've already watched a full-length film.

A woman looking at a Renaissance painting.

There were many Renaissance paintings in the gallery, mostly from the early 1400s. Almost all of them were about Biblical characters, some were about virtues in human forms, some were angels, and a good number were about Mama Mary.

Statues perfectly curated next to a grand painting.

Some of the paintings - even the extravagant and exuberant ones - served as some sort of background to the statues displayed on the hallways. Most of the statues were monochromatic, which contrasted well with the vivid colors of the paintings.

My sister looking at a painting

As the person who organized the tour, my sister made sure that Uffizi Gallery would fit into our limited itinerary. Going through the labyrinthine ways of the museum made me feel overwhelmed by the hundreds of paintings and thousands more information and details about them. I love art but, somehow, there's a limit to my appreciation.

Paintings from the Renaissance Era (1300s to 1500s)

A modern artwork

There were a few artworks from the 20th and 21st centuries - maybe about 50. That's how few they were. I guess there's not much need to see modern artworks after all. On this European tour, I want to feel how it is to live in bygone eras. 20th and 21st centuries are "too present" for me.

One of the busy passageways inside Uffizi Gallery

Perhaps every floor and every corner of the gallery had some "this way to the exit" sign only for the guest to realize that there were still many paintings and statues to see and that the gallery was actually far from over. With the thousands of artworks inside, one of the largest collections in the entire world, I found comfort in describing the museum as "dizzying."

An elaborate ceiling inside the gallery

Every part of the gallery had some artwork or design. The ceilings themselves were intricately painted and carved as well. There's beauty and art everywhere you turn and look up to. What's more amazing was how this museum survived several centuries despite the ravages of time. Almost all the artworks were preserved in a way that they still look brand new even up to now.

My sister looking at the statues on the side of the gallery

My sister looking for more...

The Uffizi Gallery had no blunder. It was way too perfect for me. Despite getting overwhelmed by too many things all in one go, I still ended up enjoying this part of the tour. Sometimes I wish we have more museums like this at home though.

Caffetteria Bartolini

Lunchtime with Mama Sarah and Ate

The Uffizi Gallery was so large, we finished the tour in about 4 or 5 hours. Thankfully, there was a restaurant inside. If you just want decent food, Caffetteria Bartolini is good to go, but if you want something more fancy and taste is important to you, perhaps another restaurant would satiate your palate. On our part, we were just there for the artworks so we didn't mind the food anymore.

Crazy tuna salad at Caffetteria Bartolini

Even so, we had no complaints about the food. My hunger was satisfied and the ingredients were all fresh. I would give the food a passing mark. It was okay, that's all! 🤣

Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore

The grand duomo of Florence was indeed grand. Set against the cobalt blue sky, this cathedral was constructed from 1296 to 1436 in the Gothic architectural style. Looking like a deck of cards stacked up against another, it dominates the Florentine skyline.

Piazzale Michelangelo

The Florentine skyline as seen from Piazzale Michelangelo

Our last stop for our Florentine tour was Piazzale Michelangelo. My sister has chosen this attraction mainly for its amazing views of the city and sunset. The piazza was located on top of a hill overlooking the old city. When we arrived there, we immediately saw the beautiful Florentine skyline. Despite existing for centuries, the city consists mainly of low buildings about three to five stories tall. There probably was a height restriction in the city.

The bronze statue David

The piazza featured several artworks of the famous Michelangelo. One of them was the statue of David looking over the city from the piazza. Behind the statue were several pencil pines decorating the landscape. I have always wanted to see pencil pines for so long. I didn't know they were a staple in Italy! 😅

View of a castle from the piazza

The grand duomo as seen from the piazza

The city of Florence when the sun was about to set

Indeed, Florence had an amazing sunset! The transition began around 7 in the evening when the sky was still cobalt blue. A few minutes later, a golden glow appeared in the horizon which gradually transitioned into tangerine until all of the sky was orange. In a little more while, the sky turned all black and the spectacle (and our Florentine tour) were now over.

Last glimpse of the sun before darkness.